PORTS-OF-CALL

From the legendary Renaissance splendors of Venice in the north to the less-frequented gems of Montenegro’s Gulf of Kotor and Albania’s ancient ruins of Apollonia and Butrint in the south, the Adriatic is a microcosm of 3,000 years of Mediterranean history. The Illyrians, Greeks, Romans, Venetians, Habsburgs have all had their turn molding this remarkable region, with many reminders of their successive dominations.

Along the Adriatic’s eastern coast, Croatia—with 1,200 miles of rocky, indented shore and more than 1,000 islands—boasts some of the most dramatic and scenic stretches of coastline that Europe has to offer. After seeing the stunning archipelago that lies off Croatia, George Bernard Shaw famously wrote, “On the last day of Creation, God desired to crown His work, and thus created the Kornati Islands out of tears, stars and breath.”

The best way to explore the Adriatic’s coastal towns and islands—particularly Croatia and its dazzling Dalmatian Archipelago—is aboard the small ships of Elegant Cruises & Tours, the M.S. Andrea and M.S. Monet. You’ll visit the “undiscovered treasures,” places not typically available on large cruise ships and packaged motor coach tours. While our carefully designed itineraries don’t avoid celebrated cities like Venice, Split, Dubrovnik, we make an effort to seek out lesser know ports recognized by insiders for their natural beauty, historic or cultural significance, and quiet charm.

Korcula
Ancient defensive walls surround Korcula Town, on the island of the same name. The Cathedral of St. Mark, the largest and most beautiful building in Korcula, contains a wealth of artistic masterworks including paintings by Tintoretto. Another highlight is the Treasury, located in the 14th-century Abbey Palace, with its eclectic collection of paintings, jewelry, fine furniture and historic documents.

Charming views of the harbor greet visitors as they wind their way through the narrow alleyways. On one of these lanes, you’ll see the Marco Polo house, where the famous explorer is said to have been born in 1254. Shop for handmade Croatian folk art near the City Gate, or relax at one of the picturesque waterfront cafés, and enjoy the breezy resort atmosphere that prevails in this medieval town.

Hvar
“I know paradise now, I know Hvar,” goes a local saying. The island is known as the Croatian Madeira because of its lush vegetation and mild climate. A walk along the waterfront promenade and through the Old Town reveals a wealth of historic medieval and Renaissance buildings as well as lovely yachts and other private craft. Fine art, including paintings by Old Masters and ecclesiastic treasures of precious materials, can be found in the collections of the Franciscan Monastery and the treasury of Hvar Cathedral.

Split
Split is the second largest city in Croatia and a UN World Heritage Site. At the historical core of Split—and within walking distance of the ship—is the massive Palace of the Emperor Diocletian, dating from the end of the third century A.D., and is one of the last palaces of the Roman Empire. The Diocletian’s Mausoleum and the Temple of Jupiter are fully preserved, though in the Middle Ages they were converted to Christian edifices. The statue of Grgur Ninski, created by Croatia’s premier modern sculptor, Ivan Mestrovic, is situated in front of the Golden Gate. People who pass by rub the big toe for good luck. There are opportunities to visit Mestrovic’s handsome gallery and studio on the nearby Marjan Peninsula.
On some cruises, there is enough time to visit nearby Solin and Trogir. Solin is one of the most important archaeological sites in Croatia, known in Roman times for its elegant, cosmopolitan citizens and later as a cult center for early Christians. Trogir offers a marvelously preserved medieval quarter. Many Romanesque and early Gothic houses within the 15th-century walls are still inhabited by locals. Occupying a tiny island and backed by high hills to the north, Trogir was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. A walking tour takes you to the Venetian Cathedral of St. Lovro, the town hall and the Kamerlengo Fortress.

Sibenik
Approaching Sibenik from the sea, this 9th-century city seems like a vast amphitheater crowned with ancient fortifications. Its narrow streets encourage leisurely strolls to inspect the town’s churches, palaces and shops. Pre-eminent among these is the 15th-century St. Jacob’s Cathedral, designed by the most prolific stonemason and architect of the Dalmatian Renaissance, Juraj Dalmatinac. Outside the cathedral, look for the intriguing frieze of 71 stone heads, said to depict those who refused to help fund the construction. Outside the city, drive east along the Krka River to Krka National Park. The river forms a deep canyon through the limestone, with centuries of calcified moss and alfae creating unusual barriers of travertine. The result is a dramatic series of waterfalls. In between, you’ll see peaceful pools—some idea for swimming—and cultural landmarks such as the Orthodox monastery and watermills used for wheat production centuries ago.

Zadar
Zadar’s Old Town is located on a narrow peninsula in northern Dalmatia. It has the look and feel of an ancient Mediterranean city: the streets are paved with gleaming white stone, and high protective walls—with portions dating to Roman and early medieval times—run alongside the harbor. Zadar’s 9th-century Church of St. Donatus was built on the remains of a Roman Forum and is one of the region’s most famous monuments. Other sights include the ancient City Gates, the Franciscan Monastery and Church and the imposing 12th-century Romanesque Cathedral of St. Anastasia. Stroll along the harbor’s tree-lined promenade, enjoy the many outdoor cafes, and perhaps taste Zadar’s famous maraschino cherry liqueur

Cres / Mali Losinj
Despite its status as the second-largest island in the Adriatic, Cres is quite wild and unspoiled, decidedly “untouristy,” while its sister-island of Mali Losinj is an attractive resort community. While much of its architecture dates to Venetian rule, Cres Town remains a fishing village at heart, with its town center, Trg F. Petrica, opening out onto the harbor. As you explore twisting alleyways and small courtyards, you might stumble across the 15th-century Church of St. Mary of the Snows or the Petris Palace, which holds a small archaeological museum.
The star attractions of Cres—whose livelihood once depended on sheep herding—are the approximately 70 pairs of Eurasian Griffons, Europe’s largest bird. These huge carnivores, weighing 20 to 30 pounds with wingspans of nearly nine feet, nest in sea crags along the island’s eastern coastline. At the Ornithological Station, learn about the mutually beneficial relationship between these majestic scavengers and local shepherds that has existed for thousands of years. (Note: excursions to Griffon habitat and ornithological station is generally not offered during summer months).

Pula
Pula, located at the tip of the Istrian Peninsula in the northern Adriatic, is famed for its Roman antiquities. Most notable is the beautifully preserved Amphitheater, close at hand to our dock. Built in the first century B.C., it is the sixth-largest such arena in the world, with space for 22,000 spectators. Other sights that have earned this city its World Heritage designation include the Hercules Gate and the Temple of Augustus. The Temple of Jupiter, converted in the 4th century to a Christian church, is an interesting combination of Roman and Byzantine architecture. Nearby is a vibrant market, full of interesting shops, fresh flowers and handicrafts.

Venice
The magnificent “Queen of the Adriatic,” Venice occupies 117 islands in the azure waters of the Adriatic. This lagoon city is a watery maze of grand canals, 177 smaller canals, over 450 bridges and the world’s most famous sandbar, the Lido. Though thoroughly walkable, getting around Venice is a mesmerizing experience aboard the city’s variety of public transport boats, the vaporetti, motoscafi and the more expensive gondola ride, suggested more for a romantic interlude.
Venice’s enticing, exotic beauty—typified by the Byzantine architecture, enormous stained glass windows rising along the Grand Canal and Venetian Carnival masks with their wry, knowing smiles—attest to the city’s historic role as a great Eastern trader. Venice’s legendary maritime heroes, such as Marco Polo, plied the Levantine trading routes. The entire Mediterranean flowed through the Venetian Republic, adorning the city in the splendors that illuminate it today. A walk through Saint Mark’s Square provides a wealth of sights from the Doge’s Palace and the Bridge of Sighs to the Campanile and St. Mark’s Cathedral.